Cliveden House Luxury Hotel and Spa Review
This glorious stately home has hosted parties on a lavish scale with high society guests such as Churchill and Chaplin, while also being involved in that most scandalous affair of the time, the Profumo Affair, and so the thought of a stay here conjures up wonderful feelings of being a part of the glamour, intrigue and history.
The full background, though too long to go over in full detail here, is really something we would advise you to look into before, or indeed during, your stay as it is quite magnificent and adds to the whole experience.
Cliveden was first built in 1666, though in subsequent years destroyed by fire not once but twice. William Waldorf Astor bought it in 1906 as a wedding present for his son and daughter-in-law- Nancy and it became the centre of high society parties and entertainment. Today it is owned by the National Trust (given to them by the Astors) and they take care of everything outside the house, while the interior is leased as a luxury hotel to Ian and Richard Livingstone who acquired it in 2012 from the collapsed Von Essen Hotels group.
This is clearly an extremely well regarded hotel with an impressive history and it was with great anticipation that we turned in to the grounds, preparing ourselves to purr up the driveway in the Aston Martin DB9 Volante. Sadly this was not to be as there was a National Trust automobile event in full swing in the long driveway up to the house, and we had to content ourselves with a slight diversion – never mind.
We pulled up outside the front door to be immediately greeted by the wonderful doorman, who eased us out of our Aston Martin and into the hotel, where we were passed into the capable hands of the general manager, Sue Williams. As I mentioned we were arriving on a sunny Sunday, and the entrance hall was packed with partakers of afternoon tea, that wonderful British institution that establishments like Cliveden do so well. The entrance hall is wonderful, panelled and imposing and a perfect place for afternoon tea, however this is also where the check in area is which is slightly cramped, with no waiting area available when this busy event is in full swing.
Finally we were whisked off to our room, we were staying in Warrender in the East Wing, which has just been totally refurbished. The West Wing is due their turn next and then the Mansion in the new year. Meanwhile outside the Terrace is undergoing some much needed restoration as part of a 3 year project. It is clear that the new owners plan to restore the hotel to its former glory.
Our room was very welcoming and comfortable, inviting you to stay and make yourselves at home – however the sun was shining and looking at the time we realised that the National Trust hordes would soon be leaving and so we could finally enjoy the gardens and grounds in peace. We walked down to the river Thames and to Spring Cottage, where Stephen Ward stayed with his guests Christine Keeler and Mandy Rice-Davies, and then climbed the hillside behind for a truly magnificent view looking back at the House.
With an appetite well and truly built we headed back to the comfort of our room and before too long were sitting in the, now deserted, entrance hall for a drink before dinner. Another little moan I’m afraid – we love hotel bars, there is nothing better than a seriously good hotel bar, and we love all sorts: the piano bars, the oak panelled smart ones, the relaxed noisy ones, art deco, country casual – the lot, as long as they have a really good barman – a sign of a truly good hotel. Sadly Cliveden does not have a bar, which I think is a shame. However, we cheered ourselves up with a cocktail, which always works, and the Cliveden 66 was said cocktail. This was created in 1666, so the story goes, to celebrate the completion of the house, it is vodka, Grand Marnier, rose liqueur, brown sugar, gold leaf and champagne, and is absolutely delicious! After that, the house champagne, Taittinger, was a marvellous accompaniment to the olives, spiced almonds, divine humous and cracked bread that were laid out for us.
Dinner, courtesy of Andre Garrett – formerly of Park Lane – was fantastic, both in terms of choice, food and setting, the service unfortunately did not quite match. It started well, our drinks brought through, we perused the menu, revelling in the atmosphere. The tasting menu was suggested as the perfect choice which we wholeheartedly agreed with, sadly five minutes or so later once our order had been taken to the kitchen, we were informed (very apologetically, it must be said) that unfortunately the chef does not in fact do the tasting menu after 9pm and as the hotel had booked our table for us, at 9.30pm, we were too late.
The meal itself however, was sublime, Foie Gras and Seared Isle of Skye Scallops for our starters, and then New Season Devon Lamb and Fillet of Cornish Turbot. The icing on the cake came in the form of Pave of Araguani Chocolate, and Caremelised Banana Soufflé with peanut butter ice cream. The food is seriously good, beautifully presented and lovely quantities, though through sheer gluttony I could have eaten the entire meal again. The only slight frustration during the meal was having to ask for a glass four times before it arrived.
Breakfast the following morning in the same restaurant but with a very different feel to it was an equally good affair, wonderful buffet and menu service. After a heavenly smoked salmon and scrambled egg, my decadent breakfast of choice, though I did decline the glass of champagne this time, we adjourned to the spa for a little pampering.
Entering the (in)famous Walled Garden does feel fantastically special, and we were soon swimming off our greed in this sublime sun-trap before settling into the hot tub and relaxing prior to our appointments. With relaxation levels already high, or should that be low, we were led off for our treatments. The Pavilion Spa is a perfectly petite spa, with indoor pool, six treatment rooms, full gym and luxurious ladies changing rooms. His lordship failed to comment much on the men’s, which is not an indication of them being below par, just that changing rooms are functional things in his view and that’s that; I on the other hand adore the effort put in to making the mundane (changing) an elegant and enjoyable place. Chewton Glen Spa is another wonderful example of luxury ladies changing rooms. I digress….
Marvellous massages, in depth, complete and far too relaxing as the power of comprehensive speech was beyond us afterwards as we lounged by the pool catching a few rays before we had to tear ourselves away and return to the real world.
There are so many good things about Cliveden, with just a few points not quite up to scratch in our opinion; clearly a separate bar is our personal choice, others may be quite happy with being part of the entrance hall, however excellent service is key in a hotel of this calibre, and some personnel are not quite there yet. Cliveden is a magical place, and undeniably worth a visit. The setting is magnificent, the famous parterre is breathtaking and the restoration work on the terrace will no doubt return the exterior to its glory days. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay there and look forward to returning next year to see the finished refurbishments. The sense of history and decadence at Cliveden is beguiling and something you very much want to be a part of, in addition to that you’re guaranteed some seriously good food!
