An Outstanding 40-Year-Old Port Ellen Whisky from Duncan Taylor
Islay, the picturesque island nestled in the southernmost part of the Inner Hebrides, is renowned for its rugged beauty, rich history, and, most importantly, its whisky. Among the many distilleries that dot the island, the one name that has achieved mythical status is Port Ellen. I have yet to meet any lover of peated whisky who does not jump at every opportunity to taste the spirit from this closed distillery. The fascination is only going to snowball in intensity as the distillery is reopened imminently with production due to commence later this year.
Fortunately, some independent bottlers hold stock of Port Ellen casks and occasionally bottle an expression onto the market. One example is Duncan Taylor who has just released a 1983, which was distilled just weeks before the distillery closed. I view it as a privilege to taste these historic whiskies and do my utmost not to be influenced in my opinion by the rarity, historical importance and value of such samples.
Duncan Taylor is a name many of you will be familiar with and is synonymous with the quality of their whisky. Founded in 1938, they have established themselves as a well-regarded independent bottler and distiller, offering a wide array of exceptional single malt and blended Scotch whiskies. You may of tried expressions from the Octave or Black Bull range.
One of the hallmarks of Duncan Taylor’s approach to whisky is their commitment to authenticity and tradition. The company specialises in acquiring and maturing casks from various distilleries across Scotland, allowing each one to develop its unique character over time. Often these are bought to the company HQ in Huntly, on the eastern fringes of Speyside to slowly mature in their own warehouse. This was the case for their latest release, which has to be regarded as one of the most exciting from anyone this year.
Forming part of their ‘Rarest Collection’ this 40-year-old Port Ellen was distilled on March 16th, 1983. This expression was drawn from cask 667 which yielded just 209 bottles and matured in a European Oak ex-sherry butt, with the cask initially stored on Islay, until it was laid down to finish maturing in the vaults at Duncan Taylor’s HQ in 2010. Each hand-finished decanter is sequentially numbered with a signed certificate of authenticity.
I was able to visit the Duncan Taylor HQ in early September to see the bottle and packaging in advance of its release. Unpacking it from the protective packaging you instantly knew it was going to be rather special by its weight. What emerged was a branded white flight case with the decanter of Port Ellen sitting firmly inside. With gold lettering and stopper, it looked every inch the part. Chatting to Ian Logan from the distillery, I discovered there maybe further casks bottled in the future. My guess is a 50 year old but that would of course be dependent on how the whisky is maturing. It would certainly be interesting to taste them side by side.
The Chairman of Duncan Taylor, Chairman, Euan Shand, commented on this 1983:-
“When I bought the company from Abe Rosenberg’s family back in 2001, the inventory was incredible, with some amazing rare and old whiskies. The casks of Port Ellen were ones that really stood out for me as something special and we’ve patiently waited for them to mature, bringing that rich, dark colour to the liquid. The cask has created an evocative whisky that embraces the peat from the kilns and the brine of the sea, alongside a succulent rich fruity base. It’s one of the finest whiskies we’ve launched this year and that’s saying something.”
Upon opening the sample, I was greeted with wafts of well-worn Connely leather followed by scents of an orange posset dessert and salted caramel. A smokiness built as the liquid evolved in the glass. On the palate, I found roasted hazelnuts and walnuts that had been smoked in a cooling BBQ. Hints of dark morello cherry and chocolate started to show through with time, complemented by traces of cinnamon and clove. It was quite an extraordinary whisky and one that I shall remember for a long time.
Owning this bottle is akin to owning a piece of history – Port Ellen is perhaps the most collectable closed Scottish distillery and to own a bottle with such a high age statement is a true privilege.
This 1983 Port Ellen is available for £5700 at therarest.duncantaylor.com
