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6 February 2024

Four Ways to Get Stuffed in Copenhagen

It’s not without good reason that the tourist board of Denmark’s capital have elected to use the slogan ‘Wonderful Copenhagen’. While failing to attract the kind of visitor numbers that flock to London, Paris or Rome, this compact city is easily amongst Europe’s best short break destinations. Renowned for its design ethic, eco-credentials and cuisine, from the Rosenberg Castle’s regal ambience to the discreet bars of Norrebro- arguably the hippest district on the continent- it’s impossible not to be impressed. 
Of course thanks to Noma, potentially the finest restaurant in the world if many critics are to be believed, a huge number of people arrive here with one thing on their mind. The New Nordic Food Movement, based on a manifesto that demands fresh, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, remains in rude health, and despite Stockholm’s abundent options the Dane’s are consistently proving themselves to be leaders in this innovative and often experimental kitchen, as we discovered earlier this year during four days of stomach-rumblingly good adventures in and around the historic streets. Listed below are our four most excellent recommendations for anyone planning a trip in the coming months, so take a look and prepare to start feeling very hungry indeed. 
Nørre Farimagsgade 41
1364 Copenhagen
Tucked away in one of Copenhagen’s most splendid neighbourhoods, a short walk from the beautiful green oasis of Ørstedsparken, is the latest addition to the Cofoco family of eateries. With a typically Danish interior of natural woods, furs and plenty of plants, it’s unsurprising that the focus here is on traditional rural dishes served in an urban setting. When we took a table a foreign TV crew were also in the building admiring both the interior and delicious edibles, proving that Höst’s claim of being the best looking restaurant in the city could well be true. In terms of food, our tasting menu ranged from tartare of veal topped with Norwegian lobster tail and burnt onion ash to profiteroles of beer and north sea cheese, with the highlight being beetroot ice cream, blueberry puree and muesli accompanied by merangue, caramel and liquorice. 
Kongens Nytorv 18
1050 Copenhagen
Enjoying an impressive situation close to the world famous Hotel D’Anglettere, overlooking the cobblestone Kongens Nytorv square, FIAT came as something of a surprise. Arriving late on a Sunday evening, and suffering from a particularly bad case of tired legs after struggling to find anywhere with a spare table, any scepticism at opting for an Italian in the capital of New Nordic dining rapidly disappeared after walking past a huge entrance window crammed with hanging meats and cheeses. Unfortunately but unsurprisingly given our unsuccessful odyssey in the run up to stumbling upon this place, the restaurant was already full, but certainly looked lovely- an internal garden courtyard giving the illusion of eating outside. Thankfully, though, we were seated in the trattoria, and urged to pick the chef’s menu with wines matched to each course. A helpful waiter was only too keen to explain exactly which regions the items on our plates came from, and none of the four courses could be described as anything short of delectable. 
Nimb Terrasse 
Tivoli Gardens
For many foodies the idea of going to an amusement park to enjoy fine dining would seem a little bizarre, until they try Nimb Terrasse, located smack bang in the middle of Copenhagen’s historic Tivoli Gardens. The hotel, Nimb, is also here, housed in a Moorish-style palacial residence, and enjoys a reputation as one of the most oppulent addresses in town. More concerned with gorging than sleeping we made a beeline for the restaurant in time for the now-legendary Sunday afternoon Cake Table; an event that basically involves sampling more sweet treats than you probably should in one fell swoop, from miniature lemon merangues to fresh rhubarb served on a bed of chocolate soil. Topped off with a bottle of exceptional reserve cava and clearly the level of sugar in our systems came close to unmanageable levels. Nevertheless we persevered for at least three sittings, by which point there was litterally no room for any more. 
Viator Food Tours
When faced with a city that has more great places to eat per head of population than pretty much anywhere else on Earth the sheer level of choice can be overwhelming. As such we punted for a Saturday morning food tour run by Viator, who offer options in various global cities. It proved well worth the effort, too. Starting off in Norrebro’s Torvehallerne- a market hall complex dedicated to dining, with stalls matched together based on whether the produce smells or not (i.e. fish, cheeses and similar items in one area, chocolates, wines, olives etcetera in another)- from here we were shown one of the best smorrebrod delis in the city, Aamans, something of an institution, the only organic hotdog stand in town, DOP (the Danes adore sausages in buns), and Norrebro Bryghus, one of a number of independent artisan beer houses that make a huge variety of tipples on site. Oh, and the delightful Sømods Bolcher, a tiny sweet shop hidden down a backstreet that has been making candies since 1891. 
Essential bookmarks…