Jim McEwan Master Distiller Presents Bruichladdich Whisky At Quaglinos
Bruichladdich (pronounced Brooik Laddie) is one of the finest single malt scotch whisky distilleries in the world and its master distiller is a legend in the whisky world. So I was delighted to be invited to a whisky sipping party for him at Quaglinos, where he was hosting a Bruichladdich tasting for a very select few. The Bruichladdich distillery is based on the Scottish island of Islay on the upper west coast of Scotland and is famous for both the breath taking scenery and its Scotch whisky. They are also well known for the Botanist Gin they produce for Remy Cointreau.
We started with a few warm up glasses of bubbly in in the upstairs bar of Quaglinos overlooking the restaurant, then repaired to the balcony private room for the much anticipated selection of fine Bruichladdich whisky.
Jim McEwan the Bruidladdich master distiller stepped up and introduced himself, just in case anyone did not know him, and it was immediately clear after a few sentences that not only was he a master distiller but a master speaker as well.
Jim McEwan could easily have taken on the greats of stand up comedy that night, he is as funny as Michael Macintyre and Billy Connolly combined with complete control of the audience. He combines great story telling with a sharp acerbic wit and great honesty. I could have listened to him all night. Throw in his evident passion for the sublime whisky that he created all those years ago and you have all the best ingredients of an unmissable and unforgettable evening.
He regaled us with stories of starting as a sweeper at a distillery and admiring the Coopers who made the barrels. The coopers were the men he looked up to, strong talented craftsman who worked the natural wood with their bare hands. He swiftly graduated to their ranks and then confessed to the continual theft of the best whiskies through the judicious application of mayonnaise bottles to the bunghole. Apparently the neck of these bottles fit perfectly with no leakage (you did not want to waste a single drop) which accounted for the fact that Heinz sold more Mayo bottles on the island than anywhere else. Though the thirstiest pilferers apparently preferred a hot water bottle concealed down the trousers as that would last for a weeks home drinking.
Much of this went on with the tacit approval of management but this ceased in the sixties when it became clear that too much of the profits were being slurped away. The towns’ livers and the ladies probably breathed a sigh of relief too.
The Bruichladdich distillery was originally built in the 1881 by the Harvey Brothers and was at the time a very modern design aimed at producing a clean pure spirit. It lasted until 1994 when it was shut down. Jim McEwan was employed was poached from Bowmore Distillery where he’d worked since he was 15 and hired as master distiller. The new distillery still uses the original Harvey Victorian stills and equipment without any computers, all is controlled and crafted by hand. This is a true luxury brand, with all the skills and traditions passed on by word of mouth and years of training.
Jim dreamed of restoring Bruichladdich to its former glory and set about trying to create the perfect local whisky. He remembers vividly the months spent attempting to distil something palatable only to be met with repeated failures. Luckily for whisky connoisseurs the day finally dawned when upon tasting the latest batch they realised that Jim had really hit the sweet spot. The sweet spot in a whisky is when it is just right (look up). On tasting the normally voluble crew were apparently all dumbstruck as the realisation sank in that they had created something truly outstanding. The master distiller recounts this as if it were yesterday rather than 52 years ago, but memory works like that, vital moments don’t fade but resonate and glow brighter with time.
The audience are by now alternately laughing and very keen to sample the various golden bottles temptingly displayed before us. If it’s half as good as the man, it will be superb. We finally raise our glasses in the first toast and it is everything promised. It is like the finest cognac ever made with the tastes of the highlands evaporating on the tongue. Take my word for it, Bruichladdich is the finest Scotch whisky which makes it the finest whisky in the world. Under Jim McEwan’s expert tutelage we raucously discuss the savours, origin, scents and perfumes of the different malts.The single malts are separated into three categories. The Bruichladdich whisky is unpeated, the Port Charlotte is heavily peated and the Octomore is known as the most heavily peated whisky in the world. The whisky is also distilled from local barley grown on the island, they even put the names of the farms on the different bottles so you know and can choose your favourite tipple by location, distillation process and savour. I recommend the Islay Rockside Farm 2007, which is soft subtle and aromatic, the Port Charlotte Islay Barley 2008, smooth and stimulating, and the superb Black Art 4 1990 whose distillation and ingredients Jim has kept a secret. It is tremendous, but you really need to try them all to find your perfect character match, peat or no, super peaty, salty, soft, fruity, citrus and sea lashed.
Jim McEwan then reveals that he is handing over the reigns to a new master distiller after 52 years at the brewery he restored to glory. This is the swan song of one of the greatest whisky distillers of a generation and there is perhaps a tear in those eyes as he bids the business a fond farewell. It is a bitter sweet goodbye. His love of his native Isle, people and craft are palpable and we were privilege to share in them for an evening.
Bruichladdich whisky is akin to exporting the air, earth, fire and wind of Islay in a bottle. The taste is so evocative of the Scottish landscapes and the sea, the crops grown there and the people. I think there is tear in my eye, it must be the sentimental Irish in me empathising with my fellow Celts just across that little strip of the North Atlantic.
We wish you the very best in the future and will drink Bruichladdich whisky thinking of the Scottish highlands and the deeply humorous and passionate people that made it.
I’ll leave the final word to Jim McEwan: “I love my country, I love my island and I love my job”.
http://www.bruichladdich.com