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6 February 2024

London Welcomes Its First Brandy Distillery In Over 200 Years

Located in Walthamstow, Burnt Faith is the first brandy distillery in London for over 200 years. This exciting venture promises to bring the art of brandy production to a community steeped in history, full of craft beer producers and even an urban winery. 

Brandy, with its rich flavours and warm character, was once a staple of after-dinner drinking in restaurants and hotels throughout the UK, primarily in the form of Cognac. Our love of a digestive (maybe fuelled by over-long business lunches and dinners, paid for with a company card) waned from the late 1990s, but a resurgence is upon us. Cocktails are all the rage and mixologists take their craft very seriously, fuelled by increased awareness and knowledge from an audience educated through the big social behemoths, where the latest creations are shared almost constantly. 

Cocktails are a social thing, the making of them a form of theatre, the backstory (if there is one) hopefully intriguing and captivating. Simon Wright, a drinks entrepreneur and former cider brand owner, has seen the opportunity that brandy offers and taken it upon himself to reignite the sector with plans for experimentation and beyond-the-box thinking, unrestricted by the rules in Cognac. He stated:-

“This three-year journey was inspired by a trip to Cognac which triggered the seed of the idea for Burnt Faith. I left inspired, not by what Cognac brands are but more by what they could never be. Compared to most spirit categories, there has been virtually no liquid innovation in brandy, especially as the appellation rules for Cognac keeps production very traditional. But this opportunity inspired our ethos to create a ‘brandy without boundaries’, as we aren’t restricted by the same laws as a Cognac. We don’t need to follow those rules, so why would we? We are free to unleash what we believe is the true potential of this category… using more aromatic grape varieties, explorative production techniques and different ageing casks is just the beginning…”

To bring his vision to life he acquired an old Pentecostal church and installed a reconditioned Charentais still, imported from Cognac. It truly is a testament to the vision and dedication of Wright. I sensed an air of excitement, a partial commitment to traditional production methods, with a real aim of experimentation and creating exceptional brandies that pay homage to the past while embracing the innovation of the present. All without the constraints his French peers have to adhere to. 

The process of brandy-making is an intricate dance of artistry and science. It begins with carefully selecting grapes, which are then fermented to produce a base wine. Wright is in talks with a number of prominent English vineyards to provide these to make it a truly English product. The wine then undergoes a meticulous distillation process, transforming it into a clear spirit. This is then aged in barrels, where it develops its distinctive flavours and acquires its amber hue.

For Batch 001 (distilled on Burnt Faith’s behalf and aged in their warehouses in Oxford) they used four grape varieties – Trebbiano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Muscat Blanc. Adding to the complexity of the batch, it was matured/finished in four different woods – a cherry liqueur from Ukraine, which imparts the signature cherry cola notes of the brandy, a Pineau Charentes cask, a French aperitif, along with Spanish brandy and bourbon barrels.

June the 7th saw the first distillation in London which I was fortunate enough to witness. With an almost blank canvas, being able to choose the grape varieties they use and type of barrels, I am very much looking forward to seeing how they mature this new make spirit. One thing is for sure, I shall be going back to their upstairs bar to enjoy it upon release, a space we enjoyed many cocktails in during the course of the evening.

The making of brandy in London holds promise not only for the spirit itself but also for the local community. The distillery aims to become a hub of creativity and cultural exchange, inviting visitors to witness the brandy-making process firsthand. It offers guided tours and tastings providing an opportunity for flavour seekers to deepen their understanding and appreciation of this iconic drink.

Moreover, the distillery’s presence in Walthamstow is expected to contribute to the local economy, creating job opportunities and fostering a sense of pride within the community. The aforementioned bar is of sufficient size to create a real buzz and the cocktails created on the night were excellent. The aroma of a few barrels of maturing brandy will only add to the ambience, reminding guests just how close they are to the distillation process. 

As the doors of Burnt Faith swing open, anticipation and excitement fill the air. The scent of oak and the tantalizing allure of finely crafted spirits will draw the crowds in. With a fusion of tradition and modernity, Wright invites us to embark on a journey of flavour and discovery, connecting to a spirit many will only have seen on the back shelves of a bar gathering dust. The renaissance is beginning and it is happening in East London right now.

Category: Food & Drink
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