There are places that photograph beautifully and places that actually feel beautiful. Provence, to its considerable credit, manages both – and then goes further still, adding scent. Nowhere else in Europe so completely engages every sense at once: the lavender hitting you before you even open the car door, the sound of cicadas loud enough to constitute a minor nuisance, the warmth of ancient stone under your palm, the weight of a proper rosé glass on a terrace at six in the evening when the light has gone golden and unhurried. The Riviera has glamour. Tuscany has drama. But Provence has something harder to manufacture: the feeling that life is being lived exactly as it should be. This seven-day luxury itinerary is your blueprint for experiencing it properly – not through a bus window, not at a rushed pace, but from a position of deep, unhurried immersion.
For the full picture of the region before you arrive, our Provence Travel Guide is an excellent starting point – covering everything from when to visit to what to actually pack.
Your first day sets the tone, and in Provence that tone should be deliberately, almost defiantly slow. Fly into Marseille Provence Airport, collect a well-chosen hire car (you will need one – Provence does not reward those who wait for buses), and drive the 30 minutes north to Aix-en-Provence. Check into your accommodation, take a shower, and resist the urge to immediately begin ticking things off a list. The list will keep.
Morning and early afternoon: Aix announces itself through its markets, and if you arrive on a Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday you will find the Place Richelme alive with the kind of produce that makes you wonder briefly why you ever eat anywhere else. Cherries the colour of garnets. Tomatoes that smell like tomatoes should. Cheese sold by people who appear to have serious opinions about cheese. Wander without agenda. Buy something. Eat it standing up.
Spend the early afternoon walking the Cours Mirabeau, the great tree-lined boulevard that is the social spine of the city. The plane trees form a canopy thick enough to make the street feel almost subterranean in the best possible way, and the fountains – there are several, moss-covered and perpetually damp – give the whole thing an agreeably melancholy grandeur.
Evening: Aix has a serious restaurant scene, anchored by some deeply accomplished Provençal cooking. Seek out a table at a restaurant working with local producers – the lamb from the Crau plain and the olive oils from Les Baux-de-Provence are the ingredients worth looking for on any menu. Book ahead; this is not a city where turning up and hoping for the best works in your favour. Dress appropriately. The French still notice these things.
Practical tip: Parking in central Aix is a particular kind of character-building exercise. Use the underground car parks on arrival and simply leave the car there for the duration of your stay in the city.
Paul Cézanne painted the Montagne Sainte-Victoire over sixty times. Once you see it in the morning light, tilting northeast from Aix with its limestone face pale and almost theatrical against the sky, you begin to understand why. This day is devoted to understanding Provence through the lens of the people who have been most helplessly in love with it.
Morning: Start at the Atelier Cézanne, the painter’s studio on the edge of Aix, preserved almost exactly as he left it in 1906. Brushes still on the table. The skull he used as a still-life prop still present, which is either atmospheric or slightly macabre depending on your constitution. The visit is not long but it recalibrates something – afterwards you look at the landscape differently, more attentively, as if you owe it that much.
From the studio, drive east toward the Sainte-Victoire itself. The D17 route along the south face of the mountain passes through villages that have changed remarkably little and vineyards producing some of the region’s most respected reds. Stop at a domaine that offers tastings – the Palette appellation, immediately east of Aix, is tiny, prestigious and frequently overlooked by visitors who head straight to the Luberon or the Rhône Valley. Their loss.
Afternoon: If you’re reasonably fit, the walk up to the Prieuré de Ste-Victoire – a 17th-century priory partway up the mountain – rewards with views across the Arc valley that feel almost implausibly vast. It is a two-hour round trip and not strenuous by serious hiking standards. Wear shoes that mean it.
Evening: Return to Aix for dinner. Try to eat outside if the evening permits it, which in high summer it almost always does. A glass of local Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence rosé, pale as onion skin, is not a cliché – it is simply the correct drink for this moment in this place.
Today you move. Pack up, load the car, and head north-east toward the Luberon massif – roughly 60 kilometres from Aix and, by some margin, the region’s most visually dramatic interior landscape. The drive itself is part of the experience. The Durance valley, the first glimpse of the Luberon ridge, the way the landscape seems to become more itself the further you get from any motorway.
Morning: Gordes is the village most people have seen on calendars and most people visit in slightly too large a crowd. Go anyway, but go early – before ten, the streets belong mostly to locals and the quality of the light on the pale stone is worth the effort of an early start. The village sits on a steep promontory above the Imergue valley and the view from the lower road, looking up at the clustered houses rising almost vertically, is the kind of view that stops you mid-sentence.
From Gordes, drive a short distance to the Village des Bories – a collection of prehistoric dry-stone dwellings that have survived because, remarkably, people continued to use them until the 19th century. They look like something from another planet. In the best possible way.
Afternoon: The Abbaye de Sénanque, a few kilometres from Gordes in its own valley, is the image that defines lavender in Provence – the 12th-century Cistercian abbey set against rows of lavender that in July bloom an almost violent purple. The monks still live and work here, which lends the place a gravity that distinguishes it from a simple photographic opportunity. Respect that. Mid-afternoon light makes the colours particularly intense.
From Sénanque, continue to Roussillon – an ochre village built from and within a landscape so saturated in red and amber and burnt orange that it looks colour-corrected. The Sentier des Ocres, a short marked trail through the old quarries, is thirty minutes well spent.
Evening: Settle into your Luberon base. The village of Bonnieux or Ménerbes make excellent anchors for the next two nights – elevated, beautiful, and positioned to make every subsequent excursion feel considered rather than rushed.
One of the quiet disciplines of a proper Provence itinerary is learning when to stop planning. Day four is the day the Luberon asks you to simply exist within it.
Morning: Apt holds one of the Luberon’s largest and most authentic weekly markets every Saturday. If your timing aligns, this is not to be missed. Crystallised fruit from local producers – Apt is historically the capital of French candied fruit production, which sounds like a footnote but isn’t – sit alongside local honey, lavender products with varying degrees of sincerity, and the region’s remarkable variety of goat’s cheeses. Even without the market, Apt has a working-town quality that feels refreshingly unconstructed for tourism.
Alternatively, the market at Coustellet on Sunday mornings focuses almost entirely on organic local produce and draws serious cooks from across the region. Worth knowing.
Afternoon: The Luberon wine appellation produces some genuinely interesting reds and whites in addition to the omnipresent rosé. Spend the afternoon visiting a domaine or two – the area around Lourmarin and Cadenet has several estates that receive visitors and pour with generosity. Book ahead where possible; the smaller domaines in particular appreciate it and will often give you considerably more of their time as a result.
Evening: Lourmarin itself is worth an evening. The village has an outsized reputation for good restaurants relative to its size – partly because it has been a favoured retreat for writers and artists for decades, which tends to raise culinary standards. Albert Camus is buried in the village cemetery, a fact that either adds resonance to dinner or doesn’t, depending on your relationship with existentialism.
Provence is not all lavender and terraces. The Gorges du Verdon – a 25-kilometre canyon in the northeast of the region – is one of the most spectacular natural landscapes in Europe, full stop. The river runs an extraordinary turquoise at the base, a colour that seems too vivid to be natural and yet demonstrably is. Today, you push the landscape into a different register entirely.
Morning: Drive from the Luberon to the southern rim of the Gorge, a journey of roughly 90 minutes. The Route des Crêtes along the south rim is a series of viewpoints that unfold one after another, each one somehow better than the last. The Belvédère de l’Escalès offers the longest single view into the canyon. It is vertiginous, in both the literal and figurative sense. Stand at the edge for a moment and let the scale of the thing register properly.
Afternoon: For those who want to get into the gorge rather than simply look at it, several operators offer guided kayak or canoe trips on the Verdon river through the canyon floor. This is genuinely one of the great half-day experiences in the south of France – calm stretches of turquoise water interrupted by sections of genuine current, the canyon walls rising three hundred metres on either side. Book well in advance in summer; capacity is sensibly limited and places go quickly.
If water sports are not your preference, the village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie – perched below the canyon entrance and famous for its faïence pottery – makes an excellent afternoon base. The village is as close to a fairy tale as a real place can get without becoming insufferable.
Evening: Moustiers has a Michelin-starred restaurant that has for years been considered one of the finest tables in the region – a remarkable achievement given the village’s remote position. Securing a reservation here, months in advance if necessary, is absolutely worth the effort. The cooking draws on local ingredients with a precision and lightness that makes dinner feel like a final, perfect argument for the whole region.
Today the itinerary swings west, toward a completely different Provence – older, rawer, and in the case of the Camargue, genuinely wild in a way that surprises first-time visitors expecting only lavender fields and rosé.
Morning: Arles is the kind of Roman city that makes you recalibrate your sense of history. The amphitheatre – the Arènes d’Arles, built in the first century AD – still hosts bullfights and concerts, which is either magnificent continuity or a slightly unsettling use of a two-thousand-year-old structure, depending on your perspective. Either way, visiting it before the crowds arrive, in the early morning when the stone is still cool and the shadows are long, is an experience that accumulates in the memory.
The Musée Départemental Arles Antique houses one of the finest collections of Roman sculpture in France, including a marble portrait of Julius Caesar that was pulled from the Rhône in 2007 and still carries the astonishing authority of someone who expects to be obeyed.
Afternoon: Drive south from Arles into the Camargue – the vast river delta where the Rhône meets the Mediterranean. The landscape is unlike anything else in France: flat, reed-fringed, populated by pink flamingos (considerably more flamingos than you might expect), and the white horses and black bulls for which the region is known. A guided horseback ride through the delta is the finest way to see it – slow enough to notice the birds, fast enough to feel the wind.
Evening: Return to Arles for dinner in the old town. The city’s food scene has strengthened considerably in recent years, with chefs drawn by both the quality of local produce – the Camargue rice, the gardiane de taureau (bull stew), the tellines (tiny local clams) – and the particular creative energy the city seems to generate. Book a table at a restaurant working with these local specialities and order accordingly.
The last day of any good itinerary should feel like a culmination rather than a scramble. Today earns that feeling.
Morning: Les Baux-de-Provence is a medieval village carved into and from a ridge of white limestone in the Alpilles, with views south toward the Camargue and north toward the Luberon that take in what feels like the whole of the south of France. It is, justifiably, one of the most visited villages in the country – which means visiting before ten in the morning is not optional but mandatory. In those early hours, with the light still low and the day-trippers still at breakfast, Les Baux has an eerie, affecting quality that later in the day, when the car parks are full, is entirely absent.
The ruined citadel at the top rewards the final climb with 360-degree views and a palpable sense of why this ridge was fought over so persistently through the medieval period. The Alpilles stretch out on every side, pale and aromatic with thyme and wild rosemary, the olive groves silver in the morning light.
Afternoon: The Val d’Enfer – the Valley of Hell, so named for the dramatic wind-carved rock formations at the base of the Les Baux ridge – houses one of the region’s most extraordinary modern experiences: Carrières des Lumières, a disused limestone quarry that has been converted into a vast immersive art installation. Images from major artists are projected across the white cave walls at a scale that is genuinely overwhelming. It is not the kind of experience you expect to find in a 2,000-year-old quarry, but Provence has always had a particular talent for making the ancient feel alive.
Nearby, the Domaine de la Vallée des Baux produces olive oils under the Les Baux-de-Provence AOC designation – among the most celebrated in France, and worth seeking out both to taste and to bring home. A bottle of properly cold-pressed Provençal olive oil is a significantly more satisfying souvenir than a lavender sachet.
Evening: Return to your villa for a final evening in Provence – which, if done correctly, means a terrace, something cold to drink, and the particular quality of silence that this region produces as the heat of the day lifts and the cicadas begin to reconsider their enthusiasm. Order provisions from a local traiteur rather than booking a restaurant. Cook simply. Eat outside. Watch the light move across the landscape you have spent seven days learning. This is, in the end, what Provence is for.
A hotel, however well-run, cannot give you what Provence most rewards: space, privacy, a kitchen, a pool surrounded by something that isn’t concrete. The rhythm of a week in Provence is built around a private base – somewhere to return to in the late afternoon heat, to sit with a glass of something cold, to keep the windows open at night and hear nothing in particular. This itinerary is designed to be lived from a villa, and the difference in experience is not incidental but fundamental.
Whether you want a converted mas in the Luberon, a modernist property in the Alpilles, or a vine-wrapped stone farmhouse near Aix, Excellence Luxury Villas has options matched to what Provence actually requires. Base yourself in a luxury villa in Provence and the itinerary above stops being a plan and becomes a life, however briefly.
Late May through June offers the best balance of good weather, accessible roads, and lavender fields beginning to bloom without the full intensity of July and August crowds. September is arguably the finest month of all – the heat softens, the vendange (grape harvest) is underway, and the light has a particular amber quality that photographers pursue specifically. July and August are peak season: hot, busy, and requiring advance reservations for everything. Not impossible, but demanding. If lavender is your primary motivation, aim for late June to mid-July when the Valensole plateau and the fields around Sault are at their most dramatic.
Yes, unequivocally. Provence is a region of villages, vineyards, mountain roads and canyon rims – and while trains connect the major cities adequately, they connect the most interesting parts of the itinerary not at all. A hire car, collected from Marseille or Avignon, is not a convenience but a necessity. Many visitors choose to hire a driver for certain days – the wine-tasting itinerary in the Luberon being an obvious candidate – which combines practicality with a justifiable level of comfort. For a villa-based stay, a car allows you to explore on your own schedule, which is precisely the point.
For Michelin-starred or widely praised restaurants – particularly in smaller villages where tables are limited – three to six months ahead is not excessive for peak summer dates. The starred restaurant in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, in particular, has historically required considerable advance planning and the effort is consistently rewarded. For more casual village restaurants, two to four weeks ahead is generally sufficient outside August, when demand is at its highest. The practical rule: book the restaurants you most want before you book your flights. The flights are easier to change than a prized reservation on a July Saturday evening.
More from Excellence Luxury Villas
Taking you to search…
26,805 luxury properties worldwide