Ljubljana: Relaxed & Vibrant Capital City
At any time of year Ljubljana is a delight. We have just added another time to visit: early December for the St. Nicolas celebrations which lift the city into another dimension. The mix between a religious festival and commercial interests is so much better than in the UK, it is the equal of Antwerp which we had assumed was way ahead of anything we had experienced previously.
The decorative lights in the streets were absolutely magical the designs were simple and very effective with shooting stars falling towards the ethereal riverside church. The focal point of the celebrations was at their most famous location in Ljubljana which is the three river bridge crossings in the city centre. The lights here assumed a 3D appearance as they were strung across at differing levels. The main event started with a large children’s choir singing in front of the church to the throngs of people watching; very moving as the atmosphere created was captivating. As is usual in Slovenia, no one knew when the event would start, but as always their ceremonies and events are most successful as they have such appeal. The procession eventually made its way on a tour of the city, a devil and an angel threw presents to the crowds; everyone had a thoroughly good time.
We have stayed at the Antiq Palace and Spa hotel a couple of times, the building oozes history at every turn, the public rooms and courtyard are charming. However, your stay can give you very different experiences as some suites are utterly fantastic, whilst others leave you frustrated at what you are missing. The hotel needs to offer the same standards throughout and then it would be consistently the best in the city.
There is a shortage of hotel beds in the city so it is best to book well in advance. One of the latest city centre hotels is the Hotel Cubo, it is in an historically protected building despite which it is fitted out in a very modern style but not in the characterless minimalist vein. There is a lot of fun and interest in the décor, some well-considered graffiti style quotes on the walls, interesting hues; the ‘piece de resistance’ is to be found in some relatively small bedrooms. They have used the standard room configuration with the bathroom immediately inside the room, the difference is that both the bathroom dividing walls are fully glazed over halve of each (the loo is hidden by a short room divider). For privacy, there are sliding sections which fully cover the glazed elements, if wished. When the glazing is exposed, the bedroom is much enhanced as it appears to be much more spacious than the floor area would indicate. Expect others to copy this clever innovation. Despite extensive works being carried out in the street, we can still recommend staying at this very conveniently located hotel.
Still on the subject of hotels there are several other ‘boutique’ hotels clustered together just off the very centre (less than five minutes very pleasant walk) but within the old part of the city all of which are a perfect base for exploring. Four of these small hotels have their own particular character and are well worth considering – The Lesar Hotel Angel, The Antiq Hotel and Hotel Allegro with the Vander Urbani Resort just down the road. While each hotel is true to its origin and surroundings, the common thread weaving them all together is a well thought out concept and there are little details that separate these exceptional gems from merely ‘nice’ ones.
The lifestyle in Ljubljana is a mixture of relaxation and vibrancy at any time of year and there is always some cultural event happening. In addition the food and wine on offer is exceptional, in all the years we have been visiting we don’t think that we have ever had a meal that failed to please. There are countless cafés and restaurants providing not just typical local food, but culinary experiences that rank with the best cuisines in the world. As a culinary destination Slovenia is not only stimulating but offers some of the freshest, finest food and wine experience going. Many chefs are from the same ‘school’ as their fellow European counterparts cooking innovative and interesting cuisine. One such chef is Igor Jagodic a charismatic young man who cooks at the Strelec (Archers) Restaurant a fine dining restaurant in the Castle’s picturesque Archer’s Tower. Igor, considered one of the three top chefs in Slovenia – and it is not hard to see why – presents a combination of the best of the present with an unconventional hint of medieval flavours.
Now this is a sublimely romantic venue perched high up in the Archer’s Tower guarding the entrance of Ljubljana castle overlooking the city. It is a unique mixture of medieval and modern cuisine, with an ambiance to match. From the moment you step into the solid stone entrance to either climb up the spiral staircase, or if you feel lazy take the lift, up to the fantastic dining room you feel you have taken a step into the past but with a foot firmly in the 21st century. The dining room ceiling is very high and striking in colour; deep red with large beams under which are black steel linings. In the centre of the floor is a large glazed circle on top of which is a dining table for those with a head for heights as it is a big drop to the floor below. The top half of the walls has a splendid series of restored frescos of Slovenian folk songs and tales, the sgraffito technique used is more often found on ceramics where the artists scratch of the top layer of wet paint or plaster to reveal the colours beneath. Finally, the modern, simple but very stylish walnut tables, chairs and cupboard make a great statement that partners and complements the ancient structure of the tower (they replace those furnishings shown on the website).
It is all quite simply sensational, the food, the wine, the décor and the charming waiters in their leather medieval inspired aprons.
Quite different but equally enjoyable was our meal at the vibrant and buzzy ‘Gostilna AS’ with its labyrinth of dining areas; all very different in style and size. The food and wine were most enjoyable and the ‘celebratory’ holiday atmosphere of our fellow diners of every possible age, from babies to octogenarians, was infectious.
In passing, we have to mention the JB Restaurant located in a striking secessionist 1920’s dining room which we have previously reviewed. It is sensational for those who wish to explore the modern de-constructed dishes along the lines of Heston Blumenthal who has visited the restaurant.
Our visit has renewed, again, our love affair with Slovenia and Ljubljana must be not only one of most welcoming cities to visit, but also certainly one of the safest. We always return home with plans to visit again very soon and are already researching something else to explore in Slovenia. Any excuse would do but we do not need one!
Tourist Office:
www.visitljubljana.com
Hotels:
www.antiqpalace.com
www.hotelcubo.com
www.vanderhotel.com
www.angelhotel.si
www.allegrohotel.si
www.antiqhotel.si
Restaurants:
www.kaval-group.si (Restavracija Strelec/Castle)
www.gostilnaas.si
www.jb-slo.com/en
Travel Insurance:
www.mpibrokers.com
Image by Janez Kotar
