Tuscany has a thousand rivals for the title of most romantic region in Italy, and Italy has a thousand rivals for the title of most romantic country in Europe. But the Province of Arezzo has something that the Amalfi Coast cannot manage with all its drama, that the Cinque Terre cannot manage with all its colour, and that Rome itself cannot manage despite centuries of trying: a kind of slow, unhurried intimacy. This is a place where the landscape does not perform for you. The cypress-lined ridges, the medieval hill towns that seem to have been arranged by someone with a very good eye, the vineyards rolling across the Valdichiana and the Valtiberina – they simply exist, with a confidence that requires no commentary. For couples seeking not spectacle but something more quietly transformative, the Province of Arezzo delivers in a way that few places on earth can match. This is the romantic Tuscany that Tuscany has been quietly keeping for itself.
There is a particular kind of romantic travel that requires effort – queues, guidebooks, the mild indignity of being photographed in front of things. And then there is the Province of Arezzo, which requires almost none of it. The towns here are beautiful and largely unbothered by mass tourism. The roads between them are the kind you actually want to drive – slowly, with the windows down, no particular agenda. The food and wine are exceptional in the unshowy way that the best Italian food and wine always is. And the landscape is so thoroughly lovely that it becomes a kind of ambient romance, operating in the background of everything you do.
The province contains multitudes: the Valdichiana valley, the wild Casentino forests, the upper Tiber valley of the Valtiberina, and the Valdarno stretching toward Florence. Each has its own character, its own quality of light, its own reasons to linger. Couples who come expecting to tick off highlights often find themselves, three days in, simply staying put – sitting on a terrace with a bottle of local Cortona DOC, watching the light change. This is not a failure of planning. This is the point.
For those researching more broadly, the Province of Arezzo Travel Guide covers the region’s practicalities and highlights in full detail. What follows here is the romantic edit.
Cortona deserves its reputation. Perched high above the Valdichiana on a ridge that has been inhabited since Etruscan times, it offers views so expansive that you feel briefly, pleasantly, godlike. The town itself is intimate at street level – a warren of steep lanes, Baroque churches, stone staircases worn smooth by centuries of feet. In the evening, when the day visitors have descended and the town reasserts its own pace, it becomes genuinely magical in a way that has nothing to do with Frances Mayes (though her book did not hurt the local property market).
The Casentino valley, less visited and arguably more beautiful, offers a different register entirely. Ancient chestnut forests, Romanesque abbeys, mountain streams that actually run cold and clear in high summer – it has the quality of a landscape that has not been curated for anyone’s benefit. The Monastery of Camaldoli and the Sanctuary of La Verna sit within it like secrets. Walking here with someone you love has a particular quality: the silence is the kind that does not need filling.
Sansepolcro, birthplace of Piero della Francesca and an underappreciated gem of a town, sits in the Valtiberina with a quiet self-possession that larger cities would envy. Its streets are wide and unhurried, its Civic Museum contains one of the greatest paintings in Italy – Piero’s Resurrection – and it attracts almost no one. This is either a mystery or a gift, depending on your perspective. For couples, it is undoubtedly the latter.
The Province of Arezzo does not have the restaurant density of Florence or Siena, and this is entirely to its credit. What it has instead are places that feel genuinely local – where the menu follows the seasons with no particular fuss, where the bistecca alla Fiorentina is from cattle raised nearby, where the house wine is often the right choice. Arezzo city itself has a respectable dining scene, with options ranging from well-regarded trattorias in the historic centre to more ambitious modern Tuscan cooking for special occasions. The neighbourhood around Piazza Grande – the town’s exceptional medieval square – provides a setting for pre-dinner drinks that requires no further decoration.
In Cortona, the restaurants clustered in the historic centre make the most of local Val di Chiana beef, Chianina being among the finest cattle breeds in Italy and the definitive bistecca ingredient. Truffles from the region appear throughout autumn menus with the casual frequency of a local celebrity. For anniversaries or particularly important evenings, booking a restaurant with a terrace view over the Valdichiana is an exercise in intelligent planning – the valley below turns gold at dusk with a reliability that restaurant lighting departments have been failing to replicate for decades.
Further afield, the Casentino valley offers agriturismo dining of a very high order – farm-to-table before anyone called it that, featuring cured meats, fresh pasta, mushrooms, and local cheeses with the kind of straightforwardness that makes you slightly suspicious of anything that requires a more complicated description.
The Cortona DOC wine zone produces Syrah and Sangiovese of genuine distinction, and wine tasting here has the advantage of being conducted in actual vineyards rather than in purpose-built visitor centres designed to look like actual vineyards. Several estates in the area welcome guests for private tastings, often with food pairings and the kind of unhurried attention that is the natural result of not having forty other tour groups booked that afternoon. A private vineyard tour – just the two of you, an informed host, a remarkable view – sets a tone for the rest of a trip that is difficult to improve upon.
Cooking classes in the region tend toward the serious rather than the theatrical. This is not the Prosecco-and-pasta-for-beginners format that has proliferated elsewhere. In the Province of Arezzo, you are more likely to find yourself making handmade pici – the local thick pasta, a satisfying thing to produce and an even more satisfying thing to eat – under genuine instruction in a working kitchen. Couples who cook well together, it is often observed, do most other things well together too. This has not been empirically tested, but it seems plausible.
Spa experiences in the province range from thermal waters to luxury hotel wellness facilities. The area around Chianciano Terme, on the southern edge of the province, has been drawing people to its thermal springs since Roman times. Combining a thermal spa day with an evening in Montepulciano – technically just over the provincial border but worth the detour for its wine alone – makes for one of those effortlessly perfect days that couples refer to for years afterwards.
Hiking in the Casentino Forests National Park, one of Italy’s most undersung natural reserves, offers a different kind of togetherness: the kind that involves good walking shoes, birdsong, and the occasional baffled deer. The park’s trails range from gentle valley walks to more demanding ridge routes, all of them beautiful, none of them crowded. Hot air ballooning over the Valdichiana is available through specialist operators and provides the kind of view that makes the landscape’s geometry suddenly comprehensible – and the kind of photographs that will cause considerable admiration when you show them to friends.
Choosing a proposal location in the Province of Arezzo involves the pleasant problem of having too many exceptional options. The belvedere above Cortona at golden hour is the obvious candidate – and it is obvious for excellent reasons. The view over the Valdichiana and toward Lake Trasimeno is vast and clear, the light is reliably extraordinary between five and seven in the evening, and the location is public enough to feel like an occasion without being so crowded as to feel like a performance.
For something more private, a secluded spot on the grounds of a rented villa – your own garden, your own view, a prepared table with wine already breathing – has an intimacy that no public belvedere can fully replicate. This requires some advance planning and a cooperative villa manager, but both are entirely achievable. The Sanctuary of La Verna, perched on its rocky outcrop in the Casentino with views over the forested valley, offers a more spiritual register: Francis of Assisi received his stigmata here in 1224, which sets a certain precedent for life-changing moments on the premises.
Piazza Grande in Arezzo, particularly during the Giostra del Saracino festival when it is dressed in medieval finery, or on a quiet weekday morning when it belongs almost entirely to locals, is a square of such architectural confidence that grand gestures feel both appropriate and natural within it.
Honeymoons in the Province of Arezzo benefit from a structure that allows for both activity and deliberate idleness in roughly equal measure. The temptation to fill every day is understandable but worth resisting. This is a landscape that rewards slow attention – a morning drive with no destination, an afternoon reading on a shaded terrace, a long lunch that becomes, without anyone quite deciding this, dinner. The rhythm that suits the province best is the one that suits new marriage best: present, unhurried, responsive to the moment rather than the itinerary.
For anniversaries, a return to the Province of Arezzo has the particular pleasure of reunion – the restaurant you loved, the road you want to drive again, the view you have been describing to people for however many years it has been. The region rewards repeat visits in a way that more spectacle-dependent destinations do not, because what it offers is not spectacle but quality: of light, of food, of wine, of silence. These things do not diminish with familiarity. They deepen.
A milestone anniversary might be marked with a private dinner arranged within your villa – a local chef, a menu built around seasonal ingredients, your own garden as the setting. Or with a day that combines a private art tour of Arezzo’s churches (the Piero della Francesca frescoes in the Basilica of San Francesco are among the great works of the Italian Renaissance, and seeing them with a knowledgeable guide rather than in a crowd is a different experience entirely) with a long evening at one of the province’s better tables. The province accommodates grand gestures and quiet pleasures with equal grace.
The question of where to base yourselves in the Province of Arezzo is less a question of which area is best and more a question of which particular version of romance you are after. Cortona and its surrounding countryside offers drama and elevation – the kind of views that make you feel the world is very large and very beautiful, which is a useful perspective at any stage of a relationship. The Casentino valley offers seclusion and nature – ancient forest, mountain light, the sense of being genuinely away. The Valtiberina around Sansepolcro offers authenticity and calm. The Valdichiana offers rolling agricultural beauty at its most classic Tuscan.
In all of these areas, a private villa is the accommodation form that most completely serves the romantic traveller. The ability to wake up to your own view, to have breakfast in your own garden, to have a swimming pool that belongs to no one else for the duration of your stay – these are not small luxuries. They fundamentally change the quality of a trip. A villa gives a couple the gift of privacy without isolation: you are always a short drive from a medieval town or a vineyard tasting or an excellent dinner, but your base is your own, and that makes everything else easier and more pleasurable.
For couples planning their trip, a luxury private villa in Province of Arezzo is the ultimate romantic base – providing the space, privacy, and beautiful setting that no hotel, however well-appointed, can fully replicate. The pool, the garden, the terrace, the kitchen for the morning after the cooking class: a well-chosen villa does not just accommodate a romantic trip. It becomes the centrepiece of it.
Late spring (May to early June) and early autumn (September to October) are the ideal windows for couples. The weather is warm without being oppressive, the landscape is at its most expressive – either in the fresh green of spring or the golden harvest tones of autumn – and the region is busy enough to feel alive without the visitor pressure of high summer. October in particular brings truffle season, grape harvest, and a quality of afternoon light that photographers and painters have been trying to capture for centuries. Winter is underrated for couples who do not require a swimming pool: the towns are quiet, the fires are lit, and the bistecca at a good local restaurant tastes even better when it is cold outside.
Arezzo city is well connected by rail to Florence and Rome, and is perfectly manageable on foot within the historic centre. Beyond the city, however, a car is not so much recommended as essentially necessary. The countryside villas, smaller hill towns, vineyard tastings, forest walks, and the more secluded corners of the province that make it genuinely romantic are not served by public transport in any meaningful way. Driving here is also a pleasure rather than a chore: the roads are well maintained, signposting is reasonable, and the routes between towns are often as enjoyable as the destinations themselves. Hiring a car – or arriving with one – should be treated as part of the experience rather than a logistical inconvenience.
For couples – particularly honeymooners or those celebrating a significant occasion – the defining advantage of a private villa is privacy itself. A hotel, however luxurious, involves sharing spaces: breakfast rooms, pool areas, corridors, reception areas populated by other guests with their own agendas and noise levels. A villa gives you the property entirely: your own pool, your own garden, your own terrace for morning coffee and evening wine, your own kitchen if you want it and your own restaurant of choice if you do not. In the Province of Arezzo specifically, many villas also offer landscape views of extraordinary quality – the kind you can sit in front of for an entire morning without quite deciding to do anything else. For a honeymoon or anniversary trip, this kind of unhurried private luxury is not an indulgence. It is the point of the whole exercise.
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